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Using the wrong brush or roller can lead to streaks, bubbles, blotching, or even ruin your project entirely. Whether you're working with water-based paint, oil-based stain, or a high-performance polyurethane, matching the applicator to the application is key to professional results. In this guide, we’ll break down exactly what to use — and what to avoid — for each type of product, so you can work smarter, finish faster, and get the smooth, consistent outcome you’re after.
Water-Based Coatings
Water-based coatings are sometimes called by their chemical name. In general, look for any of these on the label: Latex, Acrylic, Waterborne, Oil-Modified, or Water-Based.
Use
- Synthetic bristles (Nylon, Polyester, or a blend) – These bristles resist water absorption and hold their shape.
- Microfiber or woven roller covers – Ideal for smooth finishes, hold water-based products well, and minimize splatter.
Avoid
- Natural bristle brushes – They absorb water, get floppy, and leave streaks.
- Foam brushes – Can create bubbles with fast-drying formulas.
Pro Tip: Dampen synthetic brushes with water before loading to reduce drag and improve flow.
Oil-Based Coatings
Just like water-based, oil-based coatings go by other names as well. In general, look for Alkyd, Solvent-Based, or Oil-Based on the label.
Use
- Natural bristle brushes (e.g., white China bristle, black China bristle) – Excellent for holding and releasing oil-based products.
- Foam brushes or applicators – Work well for stain or clear finishes in small areas.
- Mohair or lambswool roller covers – Great for smooth to semi-smooth surfaces.
Avoid
- Synthetic brushes with poor solvent resistance – Some may break down in oil-based solvents.
- Microfiber rollers – Tend to drag with thick oil-based coatings.
Pro Tip: Condition natural bristles with some mineral spirits before use to help loading and cleaning.
Expert Advice
Paint & Primer
Requires thicker, full-body applicators – brushes with flagged tips or rollers with a nap suited for surface texture. Coverage and thickness matter more than absorption. Use stiff and angle brushes for cutting in, edges, and corners; soft and straight brushes work best for fine, smooth, mark-free finishes.
Polyurethanes
Apply with light pressure in long, even strokes to minimize bubbles and brush marks. Avoid rollers with too much nap – they can cause bubbles.
Varnish
Ox-hair or natural bristle brushes offer a superior flow and leveling. Thin the first coat slightly and use light sanding between coats for a smooth finish. Do not use cheap brushes with stiff bristles – they’ll leave heavy brush marks.
Urethanes
Always check the label — some urethane blends need specific brush types to flow properly.
Stain
Needs even distribution and control – not to flood or streak. Work in sections and wipe off excess with a lint-free rag to avoid blotching.
Lacquer
HVLP sprayers are most often recommended over brushes/rollers due to fast dry times. Stay away from foam applicators – they can dissolve with lacquer’s solvents – and synthetic bristles unless specifically rated for solvent resistance. If brushing, use quick, fluid strokes and don’t overwork – lacquer flashes off quickly.
Shellac
Most shellacs will dry fast — work quickly and avoid going back over areas once they’ve started drying. Avoid low-quality synthetics – alcohol in shellac can break them down.
Get to Know Your Brush
- Handle: Usually wood or plastic, designed for grip and balance.
- Ferrule: The metal band that holds the bristles; typically stainless or nickel-plated to prevent rust.
- Heel: The part of the bristles right beneath the ferrule — where paint is loaded most heavily.
- Bristles (Filaments): “Tipped” means the ends are finely tapered for smooth strokes. “Flagged” bristles are split at the ends to hold more paint and reduce brush marks.
- Toe: The end of the bristles; a tapered tip helps with precision.
- Belly: The middle of the brush where most paint is held.
Get to Know Your Roller Cover
- Core: The inner tube (often cardboard or plastic) that mounts on the frame.
- Nap (Pile Height): The length of the fiber – determines how much paint the roller holds and how smooth the finish is. Shorter naps are better for smoother surfaces like cabinets, whereas longer naps are better for rough surfaces like brick.
Roller Fabric Types
Woven
Tightly constructed and shed very little, making them ideal for achieving a clean, uniform look. They're also more resistant to matting under pressure. Works best when smooth finishes are desired with minimal lint (doors, cabinets, walls).
Knit Fabric
Hold more paint, making them great for high-volume applications. However, they may shed more than woven rollers and can leave a slight texture behind. Ideal for absorbing and releasing a large amount of paint on semi-smooth to rough surfaces (walls, ceilings, masonry).
Microfiber
Extremely fine and dense, allowing for excellent paint pickup and even distribution with little splatter or lint. They’re also great at reducing roller marks. Best for ultra-smooth, fine finishes with minimal texture (cabinets, doors, furniture).
Foam
Provide an ultra-smooth application and don’t leave lint or roller texture. However, they don’t hold much paint and can cause bubbles with fast-drying finishes. Best for smooth, glossy finishes with minimal absorption (furniture, doors, trim).
Mohair
Very smooth and short-napped, allowing for precision and reduced stipple. They’re ideal for specialty or high-sheen coatings (doors, cabinetry, trim).
Lambswool
Super absorbent and release paint quickly, making them ideal for high-volume applications. They can shed a bit but excel on porous or textured surfaces. Perfect for surfaces and thick coatings (stucco, brick, concrete).
Tips & Tricks
- Pre-condition brushes and rollers: Wet synthetic brushes with water before water-based paints. Pre-load natural bristles with mineral spirits before oil-based products.
- Don’t overload your brush or roller: Prevents drips and sagging, especially with thin or fast-drying finishes.
- Roll in a “W” or “M” pattern: For even paint distribution and better blending.
- Always clean with the appropriate solvent: Water for water-based, mineral spirits or denatured alcohol for oil or shellac.
- Buy better applicators, clean them properly, and reuse: High-quality brushes and rollers not only apply better—they save money over time.
Brands You Can Trust
- Wooster: From the DIYer to the professional, Wooster is an innovator in the applicator industry.
- Purdy: Designed for the professional in mind. Purdy’s high-quality products can meet just about any project’s requirements.
- Dynamic: With over 500 items in their lineup, there is something for everyone in their arsenal.
- ArroWorthy: A brand trusted by professional and DIYers alike to get the job done right, ArroWorthy has become a popular choice.
- Whizz: This mission is to produce quality precision applicators that are designed to cut work time and produce beautiful results more effectively.
- Merit Pro: Offering customers a wide range of applicators, Merit Pro delivers more, without the higher price.
- Want to try a few? We've currated two sampler kits for you to try, plus save 15% when you purchase online:
Disclaimer: The information provided in this article is for general guidance only. Tools4Painting is not responsible for any product failure, improper application, or damages resulting from the use of the advice or recommendations provided. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions, product labels, and safety guidelines before application. Environmental factors, wood conditions, and application methods may affect the results. For specific concerns about your project, consult with the product manufacturer. Tools4Painting makes no warranties, expressed or implied, regarding the performance or suitability of any product mentioned. Use at your own discretion.
